2009年5月5日星期二

现在流行曲线美

谁说做个美女一定要双腿之间看得到阳光?谁说时尚一定就等于营养不良?长达15年的竹竿时尚终于宣告结束,取而代之的将是一个充满诱惑力的曲线时代。



还在为拥有丰满的上围而不能穿boyfriend blazer而困扰吗?还在因为屁股太大而挤不进零号的skinnyjeans而苦恼吗?千万别,谁说做个美女一定要双腿之间看得到阳光?谁说时尚一定就等于营养不良?看,穿着豹纹紧身衣黑色透明丝袜的Daisy Lowe,青春期不都该这么自然微胖?深得时尚界宠爱的乐坛小魔女Lily Allen 又何曾骨瘦如柴?在好莱坞谁不艳羡缪斯女神Scarlett Johansson 的曲线身材?当红美剧《广告狂人》里塑造的50年代至60 年代早期的沙漏形身材已经主导了09 年秋冬的T 台,长达15 年的竹竿时尚终于宣告结束,取而代之的将是一个充满诱惑力的曲线时代。


“小胖妞”成为IT Girl


圆润、丰满、曲线,是老天赐予我们女人的专利,高挑、瘦削、平胸、骨感,从某种程度上说,是时尚界对女人天赋的改造和隐藏。当我们看腻了Madonna 式的性感,Kate 的瘦骨嶙峋无疑为我们带来了美学上的新鲜感,这样的潮流更迭再次发生在Agyness的男孩气上。于是雌雄莫辨的中性气质被设计师们暗藏在建筑式的立体剪裁和尖锐的廓形里,如果你的裙子太性感太女人,就得用一件男士的西装外套给掩盖起来,否则就会被判为太不够时尚。可是当这种盛行了太久的中性风潮开始变得毫无新意的时候,一股蜇伏已久的“肥胖风”正悄然地在时尚界蔓延开来。



Scarlett Johansson为Dolce & Gabbana最新拍摄的化妆品广告中,丰满的女性美跃然而现


众明星开始竞相模仿起好莱坞性感女神Marilyn Monroe来,以Dolce & Gabbana 最新的化妆品广告为例,Scarlett Johansson惊艳演出惟妙惟肖。造型师Rachel Zoe 打造的瘦子帮Nicole Richie、Mischa Barton 以及Olsen sisters等逐渐淡出历史舞台,取而代之的是新一代IT 女孩:以Daisy Lowe、Lily Allen、Geldof sisters 为代表的英伦潮女派和以Katy Perry 为代表的美国甜心派。她们共同的特点就是拥有丰满圆润的性感身材,却依然受到时尚杂志的追捧和时装设计师的爱戴。就连以型格冷酷为金科玉律的avant-garde 时装派也开始向丰乳肥臀的女明星张开双臂。朱古力美人Beyonce 用S 形身材重新演绎了Gareth Pugh 阴暗的未来主义战士装,一向被称为甜姐儿的Drew Barrymore从08 年开始就频频出现在POP Magazine、W Magazine 等时装杂志的先锋大片里;连一向鄙夷肥胖的时尚女魔头Anna Wintour 也开始欣赏起曲线美,不仅在新一期的《Vogue》里专题拍摄了英国加大码女歌手Adele,更重要的是她没有向曾经采访Oprah Winfrey 那样要求她为拍摄减肥,而是自然呈现了Adele 丰满的体态和迷人的自信。最有说服力的当然是热门朋克乐队Gossip 的主唱Beth Ditto“重磅出击”LOVE MAGAZINE 的09 创刊期,这个体重接近100 公斤的先锋偶像全裸出镜在LOVE的时装大片里,华丽亮相在Fendi 的秀后派对中,向世人宣告时尚不能被某一种审美观所垄断,每个人都有选择穿衣和主宰自我的尊严和权利,我们需要一个更开放的时尚观。



沙漏形身材可以穿出来


然而这些当红的胖姑娘们并不是脂肪堆积的肉球,也不意味着你有理由肥胖,她们的美在于玲珑剔透的沙漏形身材,仿佛行走的保龄球瓶般充满成熟女人的魅力。


如今,电视荧幕上,Carrie小姐和Big 先生的狂热影响力已经过去,时装师们的新欢是《广告狂人》里的Don Draper和Joan Holloway。那些女秘书和太太们的沙漏形轮廓,考究的复古剪裁,还有冰淇淋甜筒似的锥形胸衣,打破了冷硬时装界的宁静。怪不得包括Michael Kors 、Peter Som和 Tom Ford在内的时装设计师都以此剧为08 年秋冬的灵感源泉,重现了《后窗》里Grace Kelly演绎的Dior 大师“New Look”造型,气质超然,性感又不低俗,至今仍是上世纪50年代上流社会名媛的象征,而这股“宽肩位细腰小外套”风潮也一直延续到09年的秋冬。Christian Dior重新推出Dior 大师的经典之作——“Bar Jacket”,极窄的收腰设计勾勒出女性曼妙的曲线,而更加富贵的皮草面料和复古的好莱坞妆容为原版的优雅更添高贵华丽。


此外,Roland Mouret 当年的成名作“Galaxy dress”也是沙漏形剪裁的最经典代表,今季它广泛出现在Louis Vuitton、Lanvin 等时装大屋的T 台上。这种贴身剪裁的铅笔连衣裙不夸张不喧哗,却只有拥有如Dita van Teese 般完美曲线的人才carry 得了。要知道,瘦并不难,有曲线比瘦更难。



圆润、丰满、曲线,这种梦露式的美丽正在卷土重来,Lily Allen、Drew Barrymore、Scarlett Johansson


曲线偶像数不胜数


曲线美重新流行,但是人们对于曲线的观念已经改变,曲线身材也要满足一定的条件。腰部纤细,腹部平坦,这样才能衬托出圆润的臀部。纤细修长的手臂,细致的脚踝以及明显的锁骨至关重要。最重要的是,要用适当的穿着来衬托身材,这就意味着选择适合自己的时尚装扮。


其实,拥有曲线美的女人如果懂得穿衣修饰身材,将比瘦子拥有更多的选择空间。Anne Hathaway 就是最好的示范。拥有古典气质的她无论是在各大活动派对上还是日常街拍中,她的着装总是可以脱颖而出让人过目不忘。在红毯上,她懂得用突显曲线的设计或者充满女人味的垂坠长裙来展示自己骄人的身材,今年第81届奥斯卡颁奖礼上她穿上Armani Prive长裙,仿佛闪闪发光的人鱼公主一样;出席Valentino 大师传记片首映礼上她一袭单肩白色礼服,配以璀璨珠宝,艳冠全场,充满褶皱的细节强调了她女神般的柔美线条。在日常生活中,她也成功演绎过宽身西装外套配legging的中性街头风。另一位时尚偶像Chloe Sevigny也是深谙穿衣之道的曲线女王,Chloe Sevigny并不是传统意义上的美女,却因为她独特另类的时装品味而成为不少包括时装编辑、设计师在内等内行人士的缪斯女郎。她擅长复古的性感造型,常常用高腰的设计和迷你裙来强调自己的纤腰和大美腿。她穿衣大胆,表情挑衅,叛逆之中又透着几分忧郁,她的身材就像她的演技一样十分具有可塑性。在我们的印象中,最丰满的古典美女排名里,Kate Winslet绝对名列前三甲之内了。无论是《Titanic》里西洋画式的美女Rose还是《理智与情感》里简·奥斯汀笔下的女子,她的曲线美可谓深入人心。今年她终于如愿捧得金球、奥斯卡双项影后,在奥斯卡颁奖礼里上她身着一件YSL 定制晚装,高贵端庄,富有奢华光泽的绸缎成功衬托出她的丰满,低调的黑色蕾丝钩花又平衡了绸缎的膨胀感而不会使她上镜肥胖,单肩的设计露出了迷人的锁骨,看起来有曲线又很苗条才是最理想的红地毯装扮。


虽然,“瘦才是王道”的审美观不可能一夜间被洗脑,但是随着时尚界变得越来越民主开放,曲线美一定会开启全新的时尚篇章。古希腊的哲学家说过,在万物中唯有人体具有最匀称、最和谐、最庄重和最优美的特点,玲珑有致的女性曲线自然是为人体美锦上添花。我们怎能辜负老天爷的恩赐,是时候抬头挺胸,炫耀你的小蛮腰和翘屁股啦!

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